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the body area back to the tail. Tie in with the rounded side against the hook and with the Swannundaze extending out the back. 4. Tie in the lead wire at the back of the hook beginning slightly in front of the barb. Wind forward to just behind the bead, then wrap back over the top about 1/3 of the way back. Cut or break off the remainder. Secure the lead with your tying thread. With pliers slightly flatten the thorax area. 5. Dub the body with the angora building a quick taper. Wrap up to the thorax. 6. Wrap the Swannundaze up through the body, spacing wraps relatively close together. Take an extra wrap in front of the dubbed body. 7. Cut a ¼ " strip of "glued" or lacquered turkey tail and notch. Tie in with the notch edge facing toward the back of the hook. Dub a bit more angora. 8. Fold two two-inch pieces of round rubber in half. Tie in one set along each side of the thorax. The back end should point off toward the back of the fly. The front-end legs should face forward. 9. Repeat step #7 two more times working around the legs. 10. Flare two goose biots and secure on both sides of the hook just behind the bead. 11. Tie off just behind the bead head and cement. Then dub a small bit of fur over the top of the tie off spot, whip-finish and trim the thread. 12. Pick out some of the fur in the thorax area to simulate legs and provide further motion.
Hints: · Put a bead on and wrap your hooks with lead prior to a tying session. Make a bunch while watching TV. You'll find the tie takes quite a bit less time this way. · Use thin cloth gloves or wash thoroughly after working with the lead. · To notch the turkey feather, fold the ¼ inch piece of turkey tail feather in half. Make just one 45º cut down toward the folded edge. Unfold - viola, a notched feather.
All right, I have to admit it. I really have to force myself to tie this pattern any more. After tying these by the dozen during my tenure as a professional fly tier, I have to be pretty desperate before I get out the materials. They are too complicated to use unless very necessary (I always hate losing one of these babies - and you're going to lose some of these!). Following the hints above will help speed things a little, but don't expect to tie a dozen in an hour unless you are a spectacular tier.
All that being said, this fly is a necessity when deep-water nymphing in fly-only water - where you are not allowed to use split shot. Mike Gorman, expert Rogue guide, has a whole nymph system built around this pattern in both sizes 6 and 8. I can attest to the system and this pattern's effectiveness.
Tie this fly on the "point" (the bottom fly) and about 12" above that tie on a Prince Nymph, Hare's Ear or Egg pattern. Cover the run methodically, starting close in and working your line out until you are at the edge of your comfort zone. Then move down a couple of steps and start in close again. Strike at any dip or movement of the strike indicator. You never know what you'll find on the other end. Tight Lines, Alex
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